Back to Malaysia

Wildfox
Anthony Swanston
Wed 22 Jun 2016 06:04
With the boat’s visa running out it was time to go back to Malaysia, this time to the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club.  There are certainly places where I could anchor here and be protected when the South Westerly Monsoon pipes up but they are pretty remote and I am not a hermit.

OK, refit all done and everything tested.  Off I go.  Three miles out and my automatic pilot (Raymarine tiller pilot 2000 if you want to know) fails having been re-built and tested.  So hand steering as there is no wind at all. First stop Ko Phi Phi Don made famous by Leonardo de Caprio in The Beach.  Up early next morning and lo and behold the windlass won’t work.  Actually it worked down but not up.  Pity it was not the other way around.  I could reverse the polarity.  But I don’t know how.  I am in 20 metres of water with 55 metres of chain out.  Hand cranking this amount of 10 millemetre chain is hard work.

A full day of hand steering to my next stop where I find a quiet anchorage in shallower water 10 metres.  Next day I have wind so sails up and wind vane steering gives me some time to relax.  Or at least keep a look out for the millions of fish traps. This is the main reason for not sailing at night.  I did it once here and I am not doing it again.

The next anchorage is also shallow if I go quite close in.  Completely protected from the south west which is where the wind blows from at this time of year. At 0200 the wind howls from the north east and I am now stern on to a reef with a falling tide and a rising swell.  0400 and I start to bump.  Engine on, go ahead, hand crank some chain, go ahead, hand crank some chain, keep repeating and in just 30 minutes of sheer panic I am out of trouble. This anchorage is now called Bottom Bump Bay.  My next anchorage is the famous Hole in the Wall spoiled by the hundreds of tourist speedboats that pass too close so the customers can get a good look at the yachts.  At least they are gone by 1700 and it is just me and the eagles.  I wake up to a full moon just setting.

Arriving at RLYC I get tied up by 1100. By 1300 I have registered at the marina, cleared with the port captain, cleared customs, cleared immigration, got a data sim for my Ipad, a standard sim for my ‘phone and had lunch.  You really can get things done in Malaysia.  Especially lunch as the restaurants are quiet as it is  Ramadan and the Muslims are not allowed to eat during the day.  Mind you that means that many places are closed.  The food court at the ferry terminal is normally heaving and offering a wide choice of good value dishes.  Closed.

And what next?  Who knows.  Maybe a quick trip to Kuala Lumpar and Singapore.  Or maybe I will have to find a job as the value of both sterling and my investments tumble…

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