Nantucket, Massachusetts

Seaduced
John & Jane Craven
Sat 16 Jun 2012 12:25
Newport is yachting central as far as America is concerned, with prestigious events such as the start of the Newport to Bermuda race every two years and also the start of the Americas Cup which leaves later this month.  We did debate staying an extra day to see the start of the Newport to Bermuda race, which started on Friday morning, but after two mornings of mist, a fine clear start was forecast, and as we had a long journey we decided to make the most of it and set off early.  We had a great run down to Nantucket - the best sailing since we have left Bermuda! We had it all today, good wind, sunshine and, apart from the lobster pots, the water was fairly quiet as well.  So we don't duplicate places too much, we decided to go to some ports on the way up and some on the way back, so the decision was Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket?  Nantucket won as they were having a 'sale' in the only marina on the island reducing the nightly dockage cost from $5.50 per night to $1.50 per night, it was cheaper than a mooring buoy!  The boat basin at Nantucket was billed as the 'best transient marina' in the adverts, but I think they missed 'in Nantucket' off the end - it was certainly not worth $5.50 (over $300 per night including electricity) of anyone's money! 
We arrived in glorious sunshine, quite late after a long day sailing, it was almost as far as crossing the English Channel to Cherbourg, and after a quick wash down for the boat and us, we set off to explore and find some food. There are loads of restaurants in the town, but as we were quite tired we settled for a burger in a pub, and then home for an early night - not exactly painting the town red, more a pale shade of pink! Saturday, which was our 5th wedding anniversary, was a bit gloomy and grey so we had a wander round downtown Nantucket.  The streets are all cobbled, and they haven't even defaced them by putting black and white stripes for pedestrian crossings - they simply lay the cobbles the other way round, longways instead of crossways.  Just a little something to confuse those of us from out of town. There are no franchises, no fast food joints or even any neon signs allowed. The shops are hugely expensive, even simple things cost a small fortune, needless to say the credit card stayed safely tucked away! Also, all the shops sell the same things, largely home items to make your summer house into the quintessential beach house, lots of shell and starfish designs etc, a little like the White Company at home but much, much more expensive and supposedly more exclusive!
Nantucket is famous for whaling.  It has been a huge industry in the past, and there is a large museum dedicated to whaling in the town where we passed a couple of hours in the afternoon. As it's main exhibit it has the skeleton of a huge sperm whale.  
Sunday was glorious again so a day out cycling called.  We were docked almost in the centre of Nantucket so today went east to Siasconset, (pronounced 'Sconset).  There are cycle ways all round the island making it safe and easy to get about.  This was clearly the expensive part of the island, and the homes on the way were certainly impressive.  Sconset is a small village by the beach with a cafe, shop and real estate agent. We couldn't' resist a look at the property for sale.  There were 3 folders on the table outside, one was 'land only', one for homes under $2m, and one for home over $2m. We started with the lower end of the scale, if you spend less then $1m, you basically get something the size of a beach hut, $2m gets you something slightly larger, but with absolutely no water views at all! For the princely sum of $5m, however you get a pond view!! The most expensive with water frontage on 3 sides, was priced at $8.9m dollars, but described as the 'perfect holiday cottage'!! 
Having been to one end of the island, it seemed right to visit the other end. What a difference. Nantucket is known as the grey lady of the sea for very food reason.  The east end, towards Madaket, is very bleak indeed.  Whilst at the museum, we had seen a film exhibit of photos of the island, with local people describing what it is like to live on the island.  In the winter, it gets a lot of snow and fog although in summer it gets glorious sunshine, but only for a couple of months in July & August.  There is also a lot of fog.  When the weather is bad, the supply boats and planes can't come in, so islanders tend to stock up on basics when the forecast is bad. We have seen it both in sunshine and in grey weather, and although it is undeniably beautiful in the sun, I think that the rest of the time it would be a hard place to live.  Also it will be very quiet outside of July & August, as most shops and restaurants don't open year round.

 Downtown Nantucket - note the posh pedestrian crossing - no unsightly black and white stripes here, the whole street is very picturesque, a little like a disney world village 

 A small house on the way to Sconset - note the grey wood, all the houses are built of the same material, even in the sun they look a bit dismal.

 The very pretty but extremely expensive village of Sconset

 John bravely dipped his toe in the ocean but it was a very quick dip - I only just had time to take the photo!

 Nantucket on a grey day - a bit less appealing!!