“36:08.08N 5:21.309W”

1,659 Miles since leaving Sandwich

We start our holiday in Morocco 21 Nov 2022

Smooth as a babies bum on a silk sheet would best describe our journey to the ferry terminal at Algeciras. Up early we switched all of the unnecessaries off, humped our bags onto the pontoon, locked the boat up and stowed the passarelle. This left one slight problem, I was on the boat and there was now a gap between me and the pontoon. Norma found a thin plank laying on the pontoon and placed that over the gap, unfortunately on all fours I had only reversed my legs onto it before it gave out a loud crack, swiftly pulling myself back aboard I went for plan B. Simons boat next door was pretty close and he was still asleep by the look of things so I hopped over the rail and used his passarelle to get ashore. First hurdle crossed successfully now the next one, find the bus. As it turned out 2 minutes after we reached the bus stop along it came and whisked us up to the frontier with Spain. The crossing was in full chaos mode with literally thousands of people crossing over into Gibraltar and just me and Norma going against the flow. The rather harassed policeman standing in the middle of the road called out for us to stop. Then once he had a replacement organised, he cut through the traffic to collect our passports and took them back to his island to get a stamp. All completed in 5 minutes which we were quite chuffed with, unfortunately later on we found out that he had stamped our passports for two days earlier meaning we have lost another 2 days to the Schengen area, oh well I think we have a few in the bag so not too much of a drama. Literally 50 meters beyond the checkpoint we found a sleepy taxi driver who took us straight to the ferry terminal in Algeciras. All of this had gone so smoothly that we were now 4 hours ahead of schedule and the lady at the check in offered us a place on the earlier ferry, things were going too well. Of course, the Gremlins had by now woken up and the early ferry had a problem meaning it was delayed by 4 hours (I think it wasn’t full enough, so they cancelled it, but I am of a suspicious disposition). Anyway, long story short we finally left Spain back on the original schedule and actually arrived in Tangier med port half an hour ahead of schedule. Note the name, Tangier med as opposed to Tangier Ville. Tangier med is a brand new, (still being built), ferry port with direct rail links, (once they are built), and a bus terminal, (once it is completed) which will have direct cheap links to Tangiers. What it has now is a first opportunity to practise your haggling skills and negotiate a taxi ride into town. I girded my loins and went into battle, starting at 500 MAD I soon had him down to 220 and then he looked so close to tears that we agreed on 250 so about £18 for a 52Km trip, I was happy, and I suspect he was even happier.

The Grand Hotel Ville De France

Gardens leading up to the entrance with the white wall of the French consulate opposite

The Hotel Grand De Ville France in Tangier is very nice and quiet grand. The staff are all very friendly and even though the main second language, if that makes sense, is French we got by very well. Unfortunately, it rained, and rained and rained for our entire stay. Every time we went out, we came back several hours later soaked to the skin and had to have a pit stop refresh before venturing out again.  As it was quite late by the time that we arrived on the first night we took the concierge’s advice for dinner and ventured out to find his recommended restaurant, obviously giving his name so that we got special service, no kickbacks there then. Actually, credit where credit is due it was a lovely clean and traditional space with live music and belly dancing to keep us entertained while we ate what turned out to be a very nice meal. Interestingly enough, when we went for breakfast the next morning, we identified at least 6 couples who were at the meal the night before, I guess the concierge was doing rather well out of the deal.

Our first meal/night out in Tangier

On day two we braved the rain and visited the medina where almost as soon as we went through the gates Norma gained a friend in a big dog that happily trotted along beside us for a couple of hours. He even joined us for coffee and cakes without any begging at the table. He was very affectionate right up to the point that an interesting pair of German tourists passed by and bored with our company he wandered off with them, the treacherous cur.

Norma’s new friend

During the first day we gave the medina a damn good walk through and also visited both the American legation museum and the Kasbah museum both of which were pretty interesting and a pleasant break from the hustle and bustle outside. We did get lost several time trying to work our way through the twisty alleyways but its fair to say everyone was friendly, helpful and not pushy in any way. After the third attempt to find the American legation we actually went outside of the medina and walked around the walls to the nearest gate which was adjacent to the Jewish cemetary and then cut back in to sneak up on it from behind. That kind of completed the first day in Tangiers and we finished off with some street food on the way back to the hotel.

Day two started early with a taxi ride (more negotiating) to the bus station and a 3 hour bus ride to the Blue city or Chefchaouen, as it is properly known. The ride was very comfortable and actually quite interesting as we wound our way into the foothills. Eventually we arrived at the blue city and the first disappointment was that it wasn’t very blue at all. Not to be deterred we jumped in a taxi and for the princely sum of 20 Mad got a lift to the medina. Now that is definitely painted blue. Apparently the local Jewish community first started to paint their houses blue to keep them cool and for a bit of self identity I’m sure. Soon enough the cooling effect and later the tourist effect caught on. leaving the whole place several shades of pale blue today. It is a very striking effect and the medina was spotlessly clean. We had four hours in the medina before our bus back and Norma went into full scale shopping mode. It was a rather pleasant day which we ended by walking out of the back of the town up to the waterfall which perversely doesn’t run anywhere. Curious that the river bed below the falls was dry I followed the path down and found that after the water hits the bottom of the falls it is all diverted into a pipe which runs into a small hydroelectricity plant at the edge of the town. By small I mean about the size of two lorry containers. After a lot of rumbling a pipe comes out further down the mountain at the bottom end of Chefchaouen disgorging a fountain of water back into the stream bed. All rather neat and clever really. The ride back could have been eventful but I have no idea as I slept for 90% of it.

Blue city photos below:

I told you that it was very blue didn’t I

Our last day in Tangiers was Morocco’s Independence Day which they celebrated by not selling any beer in the hotel bar?????????? They did however have a small parade in the town complete with brass band and the whole country seemed to be covered in flags. As always so far on this trip everyone seemed very happy and they were all certainly friendly.

Brass band in the Ministry of something gardens (sorry I forgot)

I’m getting to be a bit of a dab hand at negotiating with taxi drivers and quickly had the fare to the train station reduced from 100 MAD to 40 and we were on our way to Rabat. The train was a very modern two decker and second class got us booked reclining seats for a silly cheap price. The train was spotlessly clean, left dead on time and really zoomed along bring us into Rabat Agadir station spot on time. This time no negotiating was possible with the taxi driver as it was on a meter and the bill came to the princely sum of 12 MAD for the 3Km journey so perhaps my negotiating skills aren’t nearly as good as I thought they were. This time we were staying for two nights in a Riad which is a traditional Moroccan house set around an internal courtyard. I must say first impressions were not good as the entrance was down a drab alleyway leading to a non-descript if antique looking door. Once inside that all changed as it opened up into a really bright and well-done courtyard that had the roof covered with canvas. Set over three floors, each floor had a walkway overlooking the central courtyard and either three or four rooms leading off it. Our room was right at the top on its own and even had a private access to the roof garden area, as I said lovely. The lady that ran it struggled a bit with English but we got by and she was extremely helpful and friendly.

Inside the Riad Meftaha

From the town walls looking towards the mouth of the Bouregreg river

Still on a mission to find out what the deal was with Rabat marina not answering the phone or emails we decided to catch the tram over to the other side of the Bouregreg river and visit the marina. Catching the tram, which again was very modern, was a new adventure but we managed to survive unscathed and arrived at the marina in one piece. It wasn’t long before we found the problem; no one new where the office was and when we found it no one new where the person that worked there was. Eventually we made contact with the river pilot who, apart from being out on his boat most of the day was covering for the AWOL manager. He was actually very friendly and keen to help. He took our email address and said the marina manager would contact us when he came back into work. When will that be I asked, Tuesday was the reply?? Considering this was Friday I have no great hopes that we will ever get an email but let’s keep positive. The medina in Rabat is enclosed by high castle walls and is very medieval looking. Inside it is a proper working market rather than a tourist attraction with distinct areas for electrical goods, clothing, groceries, hardware etc. In the daytime it was pretty sane but when we went back at night and all of the food stalls were operating it got pretty claustrophobic pretty quickly. That said, we didn’t feel threatened in any way. The last day in Rabat was more of the same really but we did have our first negative experience with a pushy tour guide. He more or less high jacked us as we were walking through the Jewish quarter and started explaining things as they do. After about ten minutes I said ok, enough is enough, how much are you expecting to get for this? He said 290 Mad for the association (whatever that was) and then whatever tip we wanted to give him. I said politely, no thanks we didn’t ask for a tour here is 20 MAD for your trouble and have a nice day. Of course, he wouldn’t leave it at that and kept badgering us for more. After a very short while I said a firm, no more, leave us alone, and to be honest although a bit sulky he did. First real but of hassle in Morrocco which isn’t bad considering that we have been wandering all over the place like lost sheep for a week now.

That brings me to this hotel room in Casablanca. We caught the train this morning and found our way to a very modern and posh hotel. I think we got lucky in that the room wasn’t ready when we arrived, and they upgraded us because I am now sitting in the separate lounge watching England beat Iran 6-2 in the world cup on our second television. Tonight, we have booked a table at Rics café which includes entertainment and a meal so more of that later when I will. “Play it again Sam”

Sorry I just had to get that in……..