15:39N 88:59W

 

There had been a fair amount of tension on Bandit the past few days – not only because the season is virtually over, but because we had the dreaded river bar crossing at Guatemala looming.  The mouth of the Rio Dulce is 6ft deep and Bandit normally draws 6ft8.....but with all that Italian pasta, olive oil, wine, Moroccan bowls and Turkish rugs on board we’re sitting a bit lower in the water these days.  We’d planned our last part of the season around the full moon when the high tide in the Rio Dulce provided a few more inches but it was always going to be touch and go.  The only good thing is the riverbed is all sand so we figured if we went at high speed then we’d just plough a furrow! 

 

The night before we anchored across the Gulf from the river, had our last swim for the season, and were up at 5am to get to the mouth for the 8.30 peak.  Nerves were high.....and only increased as the dreaded hour loomed.  Worst of all, most of the other boats crossing were smaller and therefore drew less!!

 

It turned out to be every bit as bad as we expected!    Against our better judgement we kind of ignored the pilot guide’s advice and followed an American boat in that also drew 6ft8 and appeared to know what they were doing.  Not helping the situation was that the only channel marker was not where it should have been.  As we later sat and watched the stream of boats crossing we could see that the Americans led us up the garden path but they managed to scrape their way through while we hit the bottom.  In hindsight we should have stuck to our original plan.  Anyway – there we were hard aground wondering what to do when a local boat came out to offer us a tow.  We asked how much and they said US$50 “all the way in.”  They took a halyard and heeled us over but we still bumped and scraped for several hundred metres and went hard aground yet again after they let us go!  Once we finally got to the anchorage they came and told us as the tow was “more work” and would be $75!!!  Grrrr....this happens all the time in these countries and it makes your blood boil But you can’t do a thing.  If you refuse they might not be here to help you next time.  So you just curse and swear under your breath and hand over the dosh.

 

We then had to sit and wait for three hours for the local agent Raoul to come aboard.....along with customs, immigration, health and the port captain!!!!  Naturally there was money to hand over so once formalities were finally over we headed into Livingston to find that the only money machine in town wasn’t working.  So.....long queue at the bank to get an advance on the credit card (the only way we could get money).  It was a long and very frustrating day so wonderful to finally head off up the Rio Dulce through amazing green jungle where the original Tarzan movie was filmed.  We anchored overnight in a tiny backwater surrounded by dense jungle dotted with local thatched roof shacks.  The only noises were spooky unidentified jungle sounds!

 

Had a lovely sail across the lake El Golfete and then back into the Rio Dulce past million dollar holiday homes of the Guatemalan elite complete with pools and flash power boats.

 

We’re now anchored off RAM marina where we are due to haul next week.  Busy preparing Bandit for her layup which includes taking sails off, stripping everything from outside, washing, stowing etc etc etc.  With the temperature hitting 36degree and humidity incredibly high....it will be a hard few days.